BD Online Garments Training

consumption

How to Calculate Thread Consumption for Garments?

 
 
There is a standard formula for determining thread consumption. In that formula you will get multiplying factors according to machine type and stitching classes. To define thread consumption you just have to multiply seam length with that factors. Thus, one can estimate total requirement of thread for making a garments. But actual thread consumption for a unit length of seam depends on many factors. 
 

Likes-
  1. Stitch Classes
  2. Stitches per inches (SPI)
  3. Thickness of the seam (fabric thickness)
  4. Thread tension
  5.  Thread count (thickness of sewing thread)


So I will advise you to calculate garment thread consumption by your own. You can develop multiplying factor according to your product categories and requirement using following simple steps.


Step 1: To calculate thread ratio, you need sewing machine, fabric and sewing thread that will be used for bulk production. For fabric and thread you can take similar thickness and same thread count in case actual is not available.

Step 2: Sew a seam of 12 cms long and take 10 cms seam out of it by trimming 1 cm from both edges.

Step 3: Unravel both needle thread and bobbin thread from the seam. Remove crimp from the unraveled thread and measure its length in cm. Generally it will be higher than the seam length. Now find the multiplying factor by dividing thread length with seam length. Assume unravelled needle thread length is 12.5 cm then needle thread multiplying factor is 12.5/10 or 1.25.
Using this method you can find out any types of machines’ thread consumption factors.

Step 4: Once you have consumption factors then it is easy to calculate total thread consumption. Measure seam length of all operations of the garment and get thread requirement by multiplying thread consumption factor. Add thread wastage 5% for the thread that trim out from each ends of the seam.


For quick reference you can follow the following thread consumption ratios. Source: Coats thread consumption guide.

If you want to refer ready made thread consumption factors then go to the following links. Coats thread consumption bulletin or American & Efird Inc., thread consumption.



How to measure fabric consumption of garments?

 
 
Like other business, garment factory is set for profit generation. Profit can be improved by saving from each cost factors of garment making. Fabric is most important constitute of garment and it represent around 60-70% of total product manufacturing cost. Fabric cost of a product depends how much fabric is consumed to make the garment including cut wastes and end bits. So fabric consumption must to be calculated accurately.
 



Most of the Indian apparel factories fabric consumption is made by pattern masters. Rest of the employees do not bother how it is done. If you have product technical sheet then you can calculate the exact fabric consumption of a garment. Average fabric consumption also depends on nature of the fabric, like tubular or open width fabric. Whether fabric is solid coloured, check or stripe or any specific design repeat required. In following one example has been shown with formula for better clarification about the calculation.

Basic formula:

To estimate fabric consumption for a knitted top use following formula.

Consumption in grams= {(L*C) + (C*SL)}*2*GSM/10000 grams (when length units are in centimeter)

Where,

C= Chest +allowance
L= length of the body measure + allowance
SL= Sleeve length +Allowance
B=Biceps +allowance
GSM = fabric weight in grams per square meter

Example: Product - knitted top. Garments components are front, back and sleeves.

Measurements without allowances
Measurement with allowances
Chest (C) = 23.25”
Body Length (L) = 30.5”
Sleeve Length (SL) = 26”
Bicep (B) = 9.2”
Fabric GSM =200
+1.75” = 25”
+2.50” = 33”
+1.50” = 27.5”
+0.80” = 10”

As per above formula consumption of fabric for this style is
= {(L*C) + (B*SL)}*2*GSM/10000 grams
= [{(33*25) + (10*2*27.5)}*2*(2.54*2.54)*200]/10000 grams (Note: 2.54 is inch to cm conversion factor)
= [{825+550}*400*6.45]/10000 grams
= 354.83 grams

Note: The above formula will give you only weight of fabric that is consumed by a garment. In the above formula, I did not included fabric loss due to fabric width, marker loss and fabric wastage (such as end loss, end bits, defects). When you purchase fabric you have to consider all of these parameter.

To use calculation sheet download the following file.
Fabric Consumption for Tee

How to calculate fabric utilization% in cutting room?


Fabric utilization:
It means how much fabric is being utilized in cutting for garment patterns out of total fabric laid for cutting. Generally, fabric constitutes 60% to 70% of the total garment cost. So, through effective fabric utilization factory can save lot of money from fabric.

Calculation of Fabric utilization:

Fabric utilization is calculated by weight.

Step 1: Measure the lay length (A) or marker length that should be used in bulk cutting. Suppose fabric width is 1.2 meters. Collect the information of fabric GSM (Grams per square meter).



Step 2: Calculate weight of that lay (B).

Fabric Weight = Fabric width X Lay Length X GSM X No. of plies (You can also calculate taking multiple lays) or 1.2A*GSM * no. of plies

Step 3: Cut the patterns and collect all waste fabric and weigh waste (C). Normally includes ends losses, cut  waste.

Step 4: Weight of the fabric of cut panels D= (B-C)

Step 5: Fabric utilization% = Weight of cut panels (D)/Total weight of the lay (B)*100%

For the accuracy you can do this exercise with multiple lays and take average of them.

Example: For better understanding I have shown an example in the following.

Step 1: Assume that
a) Measured lay length = 3 meters
b) Fabric GSM = 150
c) No. of Plies = 5 and
d) Fabric width = 1.2 meters,

Step 2: Calculated weight of the lay = 3*150*5*1.2 =2700 grams

Step 3: Weight of the collected waste after cutting = 300 grams
Step 4: Weight of the cut panels = (2700 – 300) = 2400 grams

Step 5: Fabric utilization percentage = (2400/2700*100) = 88.9%


* Extra: - Fabric Consumpation


1. Basic Denim long pant

 


Inseam = 34 inch,
½ Thai= 13 inch,
Back rise (Under West Band) =15 Inch
Waist band width =1.5 inch,
Back pocket length = 7 inch,
Back pocket Width = 6.5 inch
Belt Loop length =1.5 inch,
Belt Loop Width = 1/2 inch
Pocket Bag Length = 7.5 inch
Pocket Bag Width = 6.5 inch

The Formula is :- ( Length X Width ) X No of panel / ( Fabric Width X 36 inch ) + Wastage Percentage = Result X12 Pcs

Calculation: - In Here

Total Bottom Length = Inseam + Back rise + Wbw + Sewing allowance.( Wbw =West band width )

Total Bottom Width = 1/2 Thigh +2“ Sewing allowance

So, Length = 34+15 + 1.5 *2 +3 = 55 Inch.
Width = 13 +2 =15 Inch

Now the Applicable Formula :-

( Length X Thigh ) * 4 part /( Fabric Width X 36 inch)

= Result + 5 % Wastage

= Result for 1 Pc X12 pcs

= Yds / Doz

Based on above information we found

Main Fabric Consumption :- (55 Inch X 15 Inch) X 4 Pcs /57 inch X 36 Inch + Wastage 5% X 12 Pcs

=( 3300 square inch / 2052 square inch )+ 5% Wastage X 12 Pcs

= {1.61 Yds +0.08(Wastage)} X 12 Pcs

= 1.69 Yds X12 Pcs

= 20.28 Yds /Doz.


Back Pocket Consumption = (7”X 6.5 )=44.5 X 2 pc / 57 X 36 =91 /2052 =.044 +.0022=.047 X12 Pcs

= 0.56 Yds / Dz

Belt loop Consumption = (1.5”X .5 ) = .75 X 6 pc / 57 X 36 =4.5 /2052 =.0022 +.0001=.0023 X12 Pcs
= 0.028 Yds / Dz

Total Fabric =20.28 yds +0.56 Yds+0..28 Yds = 20.84 Yds / Dz

For Pocketing Fabric :- Length =7 .5 inch X 2 Ply +1 inch (SA )=( 15+1) inch = 16 inch

Width = 6.5 inch X 2 Ply + 1 inch (SA )= 14 inch

= ( 16 inch X 14 inch )2 pcs /(43 inch X 36 inch)
= 448/1548

=.29+5% wastage=.28+.0145=0.30X 12 Pcs =3.65 Yds Per



 

Please select what exactly you want to calculate:

Normal Trouser/Pants Fabric Consumption:

Normal Jacket/Shirt Fabric Consumption:

Cost Of Making (CM) Calculation:

Unit Converter:



 
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